
The big event this summer was a trip to Ireland for about
ten days.
Dublin
We started out in Dublin, which is a nice enough city. One of the
more interesting areas is the Temple Bar district.

A lot of these folks are probably tourists, but you can see that
Ireland, which was once a relatively poor country, is doing very well
these days. The average income is one of the highest in Europe.
One of the most interesting things in Dublin is Trinity College, which
has the famous manuscript Book of Kells. There also is a great
museum of Irish history. But I wasn't allowed to photograph in
either place.
At night you go to the pub, of course, and if you're lucky you'll find
some great Irish music.

CLONMACNOISE
Clonmacnoise is a famous monastery midway between Dublin and the
west coast, which was our destination. It's a beautiful and
mystical spot, the sort of place that helps explain why Ireland is
known as the island of saints and scholars.

There actually were a couple of busloads of German tourists there, but
I managed to keep them out of the picture.

Notice the wonderful script on this tombstone in the monastery's
museum. The script on the bottom is called Ogam or Ogham writing,
used in Ireland in the fifth and sixth centuries.

There are people in the US who chisel Ogam writing into rocks in Ohio
or some place like that, and claim that it's "proof" that the Irish
discovered America. If that's true, why weren't the natives
drinking Guinness when Columbus arrived???
The
Burren
Next we went to the Burren, a region on the west coast to the south of
Galway.

The reason for the title on the photo is that I am ripping these
pictures off of a video production that I made of the trip.
One of the sights in the Burren is the Cliffs of Moher, claimed to be
the tallest cliffs in Europe.

The cliffs are quite nice, although we have very beautiful cliffs in
California also (Somoma County or Santa Cruz Island). I was
underwhelmed, to be honest, because these cliffs have become a huge
tourist attaction that tends to spoil the atmosphere.

I suppose the best time to go here is in the dead of winter, but then
you're likely to blown into the ocean by a storm, I imagine.
The Burren is known for the limestone "pavements" that are common there
(this is the Gaelic meaning of "burren").

There are a lot of megalithic tombs here (and in many other parts of
Ireland). Below is the Poulnabrone Dolmen, a wedge tomb that was found
to contain the remains of 16 people when excavated. They were
buried there between 3800 and 3200 B.C., based on radiocarbon dating of
other objects in the tomb.

It's a good thing they don't have earthquakes in Ireland!
There is also a nice castle in this area where they serve a "medieval"
feast.

The dinner wasn't all that medieval, but it was a lot of fun. It
was my birthday, so I toasted the occasion with a glass of mead.

Inish Mor
The next destination was Inish Mor, one of the Aran Islands.

The island is part of the Gaeltacht, which is where Irish Gaelic is
still spoken by most of the people. Irish is one of the official
languages of Ireland, but most people speak English in their daily
lives. The government tries very hard to keep Irish alive, but
it's a real struggle in the age of television and the internet.

There is a nice example of a Celtic ring fort on the island, built
around 2000 years ago.

It's amazing how well they built this fort. The rocks are
perfectly piled up, without any mortar to hold it together.

Thea found a friendly horse near the fort. It must have smelled
the food in her backpack.

Also on Inish Mor is a nice "beehive" monk's cell. Monks used to
live in these small houses or huts made of rocks. They look a lot
like igloos and are about the same size.

The really big attraction on Inish Mor (and the only one that most
tourists see) is Dun Aengus fort, another Celtic construction, but this
one is built on a dramatic setting on a high cliff.

Unlike the normal Celtic ring fort, it is only a half-circle, because
the cliffs provide protection on the other side. It also makes
for a spectacular view.

Connemara
North of Galway is Connemara, our next stop. It's the solitude
and desolation that make this area so special. You won't find
many internet cafes around here, and wireless access is pretty much
nonexistant. In my view, an ideal vacation destination.

Connemara is known for its peat, which was used for centuries to heat
homes and cook dinner. Some people have started to use it
again--below you see some signs of peat-digging.

There are some very nice lakes and mountains in this area also.

Donegal
Further to the north is County Donegal. Here we stayed just
outside the village of Kilcar, in a bed and breakfast named Dun Ulun
House.

It's run by a lovely couple, Dennis and Ann-Marie Lyons. I highly
recommend it (tel: 07497 38137). This is also part of the
Gaeltacht, and the Lyons are Gaelic speakers. In fact, Dennis (or
Donnchadh in Irish) wrote a book in Gaelic for use in schools.

There seems to be a lot of literary talent in the small village of
Kilcar. We also met a writer, Kate Newmann, who lives there and
who runs a small press (Summer Palace Press) that specializes in
publishing the work of Irish poets.
Near Kilcar is Slieve League, which we were told are actually the
highest cliffs in Europe (and not the Cliffs of Moher). These
sheep at Slieve League don't seem to care which cliffs are higher, as
long as the grass is good.

Below is a shot of the cliffs of Slieve League.

Later we drove to Glencolumbcille, the "valley of the church of St.
Columba," which is not far from Kilcar. We were looking for
the fabled well of St. Columba. We had a lovely walk trying to
find the darn well, but never did see anything that would even remotely
resemble a well. This farmer drove by on his tractor with a
wry smile on his face, since he knew exactly
where that well was, but he wasn't about to tell us!

I later found out that the "well" is more like a natural spring.
It was probably that wet spot where we got our shoes all muddy.
Newgrange
On
the way back to Dublin we spent a day in the area known as Bru na
Boinne, or the Boyne River Valley, near Drogheda. There is a
complex of megalithic passage tombs here, the best-known of which is
Newgrange.

The tomb dates from around 3200 B.C., which is older than the great
pyramids in Egypt. It is quite astonishing what people were able
to accomplish in those days.

This is the entrance to the tomb. Lying in front of it is a large
kerbstone with these interesting swirling designs. No one knows
exactly what they mean. On top of the entrance is a square hole
or slit. During the winter solstice, the sun shines through that
hole, down a long tunnel, and lights up a small chamber in the exact
center of the tomb.

Actually, I cheated a bit. The tunnel above is in a different
tomb, because they would not let us photograph or film in
Newgrange. But you get the idea.
The lighting of the inner chamber by the rays of the sun seem to have
been taken as a sign that the cold dark days of winter were gradually
coming to an end, that the days would gradually become longer and
warmer, that crops would grow once again, and that the cycle of life
would continue.

I hope that the cycle of life brings me back to Ireland some day!
The End